Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Morris Minor Cars:Series 2,Pick-Up,MM Tourer,Van,Travel

Morris Minor Cars

This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic Morris Minor car art featured in this guide please click here.


This features several classic Morris Minor car models.


Morris Minor Series II


An important range of improvements to the Morris Minor came in October 1954. Aside of tackling the question of more power, the 1954 face-lift introduced a much more modern looking and better-equipped vehicle. Gone was the old and slightly fussy radiator grille, replaced by an up-to-date horizontally slatted type, painted in off-white or body colour. The sidelights previously mounted in the front panel, were now carried in the wings themselves, beneath the headlamps. On the inside of the Morris Minor Series 2, the dashboard was revised with the speedometer centrally mounted, while changes to the seats and trim had the desired effect of modernising the interior considerably. Few mechanical changes came with the new look.


Morris Minor Pick-Up


The unique Ice Cream Van formed part of a fleet of vehicles owned by the Lincolnshire firm of Skinners and was a familiar sight in the Boston area for a number of years. Originally starting life as a pickup, the model was adapted by its owners and used an extended rear-end with a rigid covered load bed. Today many of these light commercial variants can still be seen, albeit in restored condition, providing businesses with a reliable and appealing alternative to modern vehicles. The pick up version of the Minor was introduced along with the van and chassis cab in May 1953. When discontinued in 1971, well over 300,000 examples of these LCVs had been produced, with one third going for export.


Morris Minor Series MM Tourer


The star small saloon of the 1948 Earls Court Motor Show was undoubtedly the new Morris Minor, which was described by The Autocar as "a real triumph of British design". Its good looks, unitary construction and new torsion bar suspension put it head and shoulders above any other saloon car in the same class on display. The Series MM Tourer model revived the small Morris open-car tradition, the previous Eights all having been available in the tourer form up to the war. Remarkably civilised, it enjoyed the same standard of trim as the saloon and with the hood raised the car still looked good, unlike most tourers of the period. Total Series MM production was 176,002.


Morris Minor Van


The Morris Minor -based Light Commercial Vehicle range was introduced in 1953 providing businesses with a much needed light van (5 cwt, -ton) as a replacement for the phased-out Morris Eight Series Z van. One major customer for the new model was the Post Office and over the next twenty years the GPO Morris Minor van was to become one of the most familiar sights on the British roads. Although the earliest models had rubber wings (to reduce damage from low-speed knocks) the GPO van changed little over the years, simply keeping pace with saloon car developments as they occurred.


Morris Minor Works Rally


The completion career of the Morris Minor was limited by two major factors during the car's prime years. Firstly, although scoring well on handling, the car was generally underpowered by comparison to its competitors and then, when the tuneable A-series engine was installed, the Minor was up against models like the A35, which had the crucial weight advantage. BMC did, however, campaign the Minor in selected events where they felt the car had a realistic chance of performing well. One marvellous early result was the 23rd place overall Pat Moss and Ann Wisdom achieved in their works Minor, NMO 933 in the 1957 Leige-Rome-Leige-Rally.


Morris Minor Traveller


The Morris Minor Traveller, with its wood framed body was an addition to the range in October 1953. Mechanically identical to the other Series 2 Minors, the floorpan , sills and entire front end of the Traveller were common to the saloons. The standard steel roof finished at a point just above the door pillar where it was joined by an aluminium roof, which ran to the rear of the car. This was supported by the wooden framework, which bolted to the steel floorpan. The side panels were also in aluminium, but the rear wings, which differed slightly to those of the saloon, were in steel. The wood frame itself was made up of 50 pieces of seasoned ash, explaining the extra cost of the models, 599 on announcement, compared to the four-door's 560.


Morris Minor Fire Engine


This unique non-production Morris Minor Fire Engine was built by the Body Development Department at Cowley for used as the first-response vehicle with Morris Motors. Small and low, it could move quickly through a congested factory and arrive at a source of fire well before a full-size appliance. The vehicle is based on an early prototype. Traveller chassis and entered service at the Morris Motors factory in 1952. Modifications were made to the vehicle in 1963, when it received a 1,098cc engine and gearbox in place of the original side-valve unit. TFC 953 remained in service until 1974, after which time it was disposed of by British Leyland. Later restored by the Historica Morris Fire Engine Club, this special Morris Minor now resides at the Heritage Motor Centre in Gaydon, Warwickshire.


Morris Minor Police Car


With the introduction of Unit Beat Policing in the 1960s, numerous police forces across Britain chose the Morris Minor for their Panda Car requirements as it represented the ideal small car for this type of work. Cheap to buy and maintain, they became a familiar sight across Britain, some seeing service until the mid 1970s, long after the demise of the Minor in 1971. Usually two-door 1000 saloons, the striking panda livery consisted of white for the doors and that part of the roof forward of the B-posts, while the remainder of the vehicle was finished in Bermuda Blue. Interiors were usually black and of standard design except for the special zipped headlining, which was fitted to give access to the wiring for the roof-mounted illuminated Police sign.


Morris Minor 1000 Convertible


In October 1962 the larger and more powerful 1,098cc engine arrived for the Morris Minor giving the car extra performance to help it compete against the competition, in particular the Ford Anglia and Vauxhall Viva. The 64.6 X 83.7 mm, 1,098cc engine gave 48bhp @ 5,100 rpm and differed from the 948cc unit in that it featured a strengthened ribbed crankcase, and a thrust washer at the centre main bearing. Compression was a fairly high 8.5 to 1 and an SU carburettor was still used. Total production for the open Morris Minor was only 74,960 cars, between 1948 and 1969, or in other words around six out of every hundred cars built, making these the rarest and most desirable models today.




Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Mini Cooper Cars: Mk3 1275S,Rover 1.3i,Works S,Mk2,Mk1

Mini Cooper Cars


This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic Mini Cooper art featured in this guide please click here.


This guide features several classic Mini Coopers.


Mini Cooper MkI 997cc


The Mini Cooper was introduced in 1961 and with a 997cc engine and 55bhp it offered a tremendous improvement in performance over the standard car. The two-tone Cooper was otherwise almost indistinguishable from the 850 model, with just the discreet badging and different grille giving the game away. The first of the fast Minis, it was capable of 85mph and 0-60mph in around 17 seconds. In January 1964 the 997cc Cooper was replaced by the 998cc version. Although only fractionally larger in capacity, the engine had been subtly reworked to more balanced proportion and this led to an improvement in torque and tractability.


Mini Cooper S Mk II 998cc


In 1967 the Cooper and Cooper S along with all other cars in the range received the heavier Mk II bodyshell. Changes were light, at the front the grille was redesigned with the top chrome strip being attached to the bonnet and the sides reshaped to give the car a more pleasing look. At the rear the bodyshell incorporated a larger light cluster and a two inch wider rear window. In addition, the Mk2 solved some of the niggly problems associated with earlier models. The use of seat belts had been growing since legislation made their fitment compulsory, but once strapped in to a static belt it was difficult to reach the switches on the centre facia. Mk2 modifications brought the switches three-inches nearer to the driver. Other definite improvements at the time were a smaller turning circle and twin leading shoe front brakes.


Cooper Car Co. Works Mini


Cooper ran a Works Team in the sixties with cards in the colours of the F1 team (British Racing Green with Snowberry White longitudinal stripes) with the legendary Cooper Car Co on the door tops, and driven by Sir John Whitmore, John Handley, John Rhodes and John Fitzpatrick, amongst others. Competing against other successful teams such as the Alexander and Broadspeed outfits, these thrilling green and white racers were a very familiar sight on the circuits during the 1960s. Later, of course, they were the inspiration for the new generation of Rover Mini Coopers. Towards the end of the 1960s, BMC tightened its belt and took the works-associated teams in-house. Cooper then ran an independent team of Minis in yellow and black racing colours.


Works Mini Cooper S


The Mini Cooper has been extremely successful in motor sport with Coopers and Cooper S enjoying overwhelming success in both racing and rallying - the 1275S won 23 rallies for the works between 1964 and 1969. The victories for the Coopers at Monte Carlo are perhaps the most widely acclaimed. In 1964 Paddy Hopkirk first won the great Monte Carlo, followed by another win in 1965 by Timo Makinen. In 1966 there was a disqualification from 1st place and in 1967 yet another victory was recorded. These were the greatest years for the Mini Cooper in competition and the Mini's standing as a legend in its own lifetime was firmly secured.


Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i


The idea of bringing back the Mini Cooper came from a series of meetings between Rover and John Cooper and on the 10th July 1990 the Rover Special Products or RSP Commemorative Cooper was launched. Intended as a limited Commemorative edition of 1000 (plus 650 for Japan) the new model was inevitably closer to the standard Mini specification than the old Mini Coopers had been. The 1.3 litre unit form the MG Metro was used while the Minilite style wheels were borrowed from the Mini 30 model of 1989 along with most of the interior trim. Finished in a range of two-tone colour schemes, the Commemorative looked remarkably similar to its 1960s brethren and in performance terms was similar to the original 1275cc Cooper S.


Mini Cooper Mk III 1275S


In line with the ordinary Mini Saloons, the Cooper S received the MkIII bodyshell (with concealed door hinges originally introduced i November 1969) in March 1970. The performance and road-holding were still there and it retained hydrolastic suspension, but in terms of appearance the Mini Cooper S was watered down to such an extent that it now looked little different from any other Mini. The two-tone paintwork, a hallmark of the Cooper and Cooper S, had gone and only the obligatory right-hand petrol tank, ventilated wheels and Cooper S badge on the boot lid gave the game away. When the last Mk3 Cooper S rolled off the Longbridge production line in June 1971 it seemed that the Cooper legend was to retire into the history books but dramatically the Cooper was to be re-launched nearly twenty years later by Rover.




Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Bubble

Bubble and Micro Cars


This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic car art featured in this guide please click here.


The 1950's "Bubble Car" ushered in a new era of inexpensive motoring, three-wheeled micro-cars that could be driven on a motorcycle license and were taxed accordingly. British models were soon added to foreign imports. This guide features some of the most popular and well known.


Berkeley T60


The three-wheeled Berkley T60 effectively became an updated Morgan in the late 1950s. Initially a 4-wheeled sports version, Lawrie Bond modified the rear-end to create an instant success with genuine sports-car ability. The 328cc Excelsior engine gave a possible top speed at 60mph, and 1850 were built in just over two years. The marque died in the late 1960s with the collapse of its parent caravan market but faithful enthusiasts still keep many on the roads using the original moulds as the re-introduced Bandini.


BMW Isetta


In 1955 Rennzo Revolta sold the manufacturing rights of his unsuccessful bubble car to BMW, and the rest as they say, is history. BMW replaced the two-stroke with their own 247cc single-cylinder 4-stroke. A 295cc engine came in 1956 for export, with different trim and sliding windows. The forward swing door enabled front on kerb parking. Production continued of this popular model, four-wheel for export and three-wheel for home used until 1962.


Fuldamobil


In 1950 Karl Schmitt of Electro-maschinenbay in Fuldz produced his unique Fuldamobil. Built under licence in many countries, this wooden-framed, alloy-panelled bodied micro-car was powered by a variety of engines, from 200cc ILO to 360cc Sachs all with four-speed box and electrical reverse. The two-seater coupe was built along car lines, but with the engine mounted alongside and driving the rear wheel.


Heinkel/Trojan 200


Considered one of the prettiest bubbles, the Heinkel Kabinen entered the German market in 1955. The 175cc four-stroke air-cooled engine gave two adults/two children a top speed of 56mph with 100mpg. Soft-top convertibles were also built, sealing the front opening door and cutting the body to waist height. Production moved in 1958 to Dundalk Engineering in Northern Ireland, and again in 1962 to the Croydon based Trojan Company who with modification, marketed it as the 200 and built some 10,000 units.


Meadows Frisky


The Raymond Flowers designed Frisky began life as a four-wheeler in 1957. The first three-wheeled "Frisky Three" was powered by a 197cc two-stroke with coil front suspension and rear by pivoted-arm. Both coupe and convertible were offered, with Family Three in 1959 designed for 2 2 children. Production was abandoned in 1964 after the Prince model, which used a 328cc power plant. The design was then taken to Australia to become the Zeta.


Messerschmitt KR


The Messerschmitt is probably the best known microcar, and was designed by Fritz Fend, technical officer of the famous aircraft company. Introduced in 1953, its unique welded steel structure was chassis-less, and had handle-bar steering and twist-grip throttle, which powered a 9hp 4-gear transmission. Over 20,000 KR175's were produced, with further refinement on the more powerful KR200. A variety of cabriolet soft-tops and Plexiglass dome canopies lifted for access to the two-seat tandem cockpit.


Nobel 200


Starting with limited success in 1957 as Fuldamobil's King, this attractive glass-fibre bodied vehicle was then produced by York Noble industries. The Fichtel and Sachs 191cc engine provided some 90mpg at 45-plus mph. Cable brakes to the front wheels only were insufficient for the potential all-up weight, which could provide seats for two adults, a cramped rear bench for kiddies or storage, and a large front foot-well for extra luggage.


Peel Trident


The Trident was a two-seat version of the earlier P50 and used the same 49cc DKW two-stroke. A front-hinged plexi-glass dome provided access to the twin-seat cabin. At just under 6ft long, and with the 5in wheels giving an 8ft turning circle, there was no need for a reverse gear, being light enough to lift the back end for parking. De-misting was a constant problem as there was no airflow inside the cabin.


Zundapp Janus


In 1956, Fritz Neumeyer of Zundapp (a previous collaborator with Porsche to produce the legendary Beetle), took out a licence from Dornier for a small 4-seat vehicle named the Delta, and from this developed the Janus 250. The unconventional back-to-back paired seating and similar front and back opening doors made for a more compact symmetrical car. Engine: 248cc single-cylinder 2-stroke, mounted centrally between the seats, with four-speed and reverse gearbox and hydraulic brakes on all four wheels. Top speed with accelerator hard to floor was 50mph.



Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

A MS WARNING RE:WEBCAM 1.3 SPHERE WITH MICROPHONE

This is my first (and probably the only)helpful guide I will ever write about1.3 Sphere Webcams with microphone. I received mine today (31/5/08) the day after I ordered it, which was very quick delivery. BUT I encountered a problem when I inserted the mini-laser disc in the CD Drive:


It began installingcorrectly but whenit came to the secondpage Microsoft super-imposed a warning box and promptly told me NOT to continue to install this webcam as it might contain viruses, damage my computer and adverselyaffect my XP software, either with immediate effect or at some time in the future! It basicaly said I had to stop the installation immediately and contact the seller to obtain an official XP LOGO DEVICE DRIVER (which are tested and approved solely by Microsoft). It frightened me rigid so I immediately removed the mini-disc, cancelled the wizard andsent an email to the seller requesting an XP LOGO DEVICE DRIVER for my new webcam.


Luckily I know someone who is a systems analyst and programmer and he knows a great deal about computers-so I rang him. Apparently Microsoft want the Chinese Manufacturers to buy expensive device drivers from MS and, because this would push up the cost of webcams like mine, MS are now'annoyed' to the extent they put this warning on XP users'screens!


On my friend's advice I completed the installation of the webcam then immediately ran a virusscan, which showed that there were NO THREATS found. I also did a complete Rootkit Scan, to be on the safe side. Again NO THREATSfound. What a relief!


MY ADVICE IS THIS-If you buy any webcam, either a 1.3 Sphere Webcam with Microphone or another manufactured in China, be prepared for this warning to appear on your screen. It is YOUR choice whether you install or cancel the installation of your webcam. If you chose to ignore the warning and continue with the installationmake sure youimmediately initiate a Virus Scan and, if you have it installed, a Rootkit Scan.


So there you have it. What happened to me could just as easily happen to you. In the end though it is YOUR CHOICE as to how you proceed.


I do hope this guide helps you! Thanks for reading it.

Mamas and Papas ora

Firstly, anyone who says the harness doesn't keep the child in properly, are stupid stupid people!!!


Mamas and Papas have most of their pushchairs now with a floating harness. This gives the full security of a fixed 5 point harness, but it gives the passenger more manoverability.


Mamas and Papas certainly wouldn't put their name on anything that was not to the highest of standards.


I don't beleive half of these reviews at times, and I am glad that I like to try products for myself.


I have alot of buggies and pushchairs, due to some obsession with them, and each one I have has recieved reviews ranging from very good, to very bad, and I have never had any problems with any!


I bought the Ora, and I love it.


I wish the height handle was slightly lower, as i am only 5'0, but i knew the handle height before I bought it as it was listed. But I liked the look of it so bought it anyway (I usually only go for handles no higher than 104cm)


However, this is certainly not a fault with the buggy, and as for pushing, it is very smooth, the seat is roomy, and my 2 year old looks very comfy in it. And whats more, no one tries to get out of their buggy more than he does, due to the terrible two's, and trust me, no matter how hard he tries, that harness doesn't let him budge out of that seat, but as I said earlier, he can lean forward, which is what he likes to do to be able to lean on the bumper bar at the front. Point being, some silly womas claims her 14 month old nearly fell out twice in one shopping trip , sorry but that is rubbish. She obviously wasn't using it correctly!


It is very good value for money, as it comes with the raincover, and the cosytoes, and the changing bag, these items alone in Mamas and Papas store usually range from 20 - 50 each too.


Another woman said her cosytoes broke the first time she used it - well she must have forced it or something, as i had a good look at mine, and went over the stitching, and everything, and the quality of it is the same high standard as any other Mamas and Papas cosytoes i have ever had.


Summery: -


This pushchair is fab, good value for money and just as good as any other Mamas and Papas product, and in fact it will be sold in store later on in the year (Like the Mamu that was initially sold in Argos!)


It is also practically identical to the Luna pushchair that is 150 in Mamas and Papas stores excluding accessories. The only difference is that the Luna has height adjusting handles!


Hope I helped


Many Thanks.


Philips Satinelle Ice Epilator

I Purchased a Philips Satinelle Ice Epilator on ebay. I was a little apprehensive as I have been waxing for years and always wondered about epilators, I was fed up with messy wax and it is so time consuming also you have to let the hairs grow which I didn't like. So I tool the bull by the horns and decided to give an epilator a try. I started with my legs as I have always waxed them and so thought it would be easy as the hairs are used to being pulled out which makes them easier to remove. It was simple epilating my legs took 2 mins and was no more painful than waxing which in my opinion is quite bearable, so then I went for my underarms, well as I have never been able to wax them as it is too hard to hold the skin taught, epilating them was pretty painful so I did a little bit at a time and as I am reasonably brave I managed to do them both, then a few days later i did them again and it was quite a bit easier, now I do them about once a week (although I have never seen a hair in that short space of time) it is just so quick it takes about 1 minute and the results are brilliant.As you can imagine the bikini area is the most painful but if you can just grit your teeth and do a little at a time I promise you it is worth it, it gets easier everytime you do it and the results are absolutely fantastic, after the first time you do it the hairs are so much less it is much easier. It has totally revolutionised my life and I will never go back to waxing. Epilating takes less than five minutes and you are hair free for weeks if you choose to leave it that long but I never do I do it about once a week. The epilator I bought has an Ice feature which supposedly numbs the area to make it less painful but I have never tried it so cannot comment on if it helps or not. But if you have been thinking of epilating and are determined like me I would say you will be very happy with the results, just do a little at a time as I found when it became to painfuli went to another area and then went back to it and found it easier, I think your body becomes more resillient after a little while and you find you can go back to it again and finish the job then next time it is easier. Good Luck. its worth it.

TOWELS - what does GSM mean!

LIVEWIRE DISCOUNT STORE


I have added this guide on towels GSM I hope its helpfull.


The quality of towels is determined by the GSM (grams per square metre). Poor quality towels have a GSM of between 200 - 300. Superior quality towels have a GSM of between 400 and 600. The more grams per square metre means that the towel are more absorbent and longer lasting.

Wessex Teak

Stay well away from this company! They do not return emails and take ages to deliver. I had to resort to paypal dispute to get my goods. Be careful because they will try to make you wait for over 2 months for delivery by which time you have no recourse to paypay dispute. Check out their feedback, most are for 1p auctions, lots of people who purchase the furniture have problems, my advice - stay well away.


amazon vs ebay

Hi, i have recently had sort of extremely strange experience with amazon, so would like to share it with you. I was registered as a seller, which actually costed me 25 every month, plus 7-11% fee from sales, which is actually sky high according to me. But lets get back to problem. I was selling perfumes and stuff with no problems, until i have sold one laptop recently. Now what has happened. Woman who bought laptop was using it good 2 months with no problems whats or ever, until with the amazon deathline for warranty period which is around 90 days, she decided that on used laptop around 2 years old, battery didnt last long enough. So woman decided to claim for refund. To my big suprise she was refunded in NOW LISTEN 2 days, unless amazon even had any word from me if i have laptop at least back. So money gone, laptop as well. I have contacted amazon and they told me that its their policy to make their buyers satisfied at all times. Then i have contacted woman, whether she is going to send laptop back to me, but she said, she has the money and cant be bothered anymore. After that i got back to amazon and what they wrote me i couldnt believe. They said that i should arrange local pick up from buyer at my cost. I live in N.Ireland, woman in Bristol so that would cost me another 60 or more just to fly there and back. I have contacted for the last time Amazon and they said i have to understand that they cant do anything more. Sounds strange to me , so if anyone is thinking to sell stuff on Amazon, think twice before you do as their policy is more than unfair to sellers. If you found this at least little helpful please give me your vote.Thanks and good luck on ebay.

HOW DOES A FISHFINDER WORK ?

A fishfinder is a type of fathometer, both being specialised types of echo sounding systems, a type of Active SONAR (`Sounding` is the measurement of water depth, a historical nautical term of very long usage.) The fishfinder uses active sonar to detect fish and the bottom then displays them on a graphical display device, generally a LCD or CRT screen. In contrast, the modern fathometer (from fathom plus meter, as in `to measure`) is designed specifically to show depth, so many use only a digital display (useless for fish finding) instead of a graphical display, and frequently will have some means of making a permanent recording of soundings (which are merely shown and subsequently electronically discarded in common sporting fishfinder technology) and are always principally instruments of navigation and safety. The distinction is in their main purpose and hence in the features given the system. Both work the same way, and use similar frequencies, and, display type permitting, both can show fish and the bottom. Thus today, both have merged, especially with the advent of computer interfaced multipurpose fishfinders combining GPS technology, digital chart-plotting, perhaps radar and electronic compass displays in the same affordable way.


In a generalized sense, a electrical impulse from a transmitter is converted into a sound wave by the transducer, also called a hydrophone, and sent into the water. When the wave strikes something such as a fish, it is reflected back and displays size, composition, and shape of the object. The exact extent of what can be discerned depends on the frequency and power of the pulse transmitted. The signal is quickly amplified and sent to the display. Knowing that the speed of the wave in the water is 4921 ft/s (1500 m/s) in sea water, 4800 ft/s (1463 m/s) in freshwater (typical values used by commercial fish finders), the distance to the object that reflected the wave can be determined. The process can be repeated up uto 40x per second this fathometer function eventually spawned the sporting use of fishfinding. Note: This discussion of the propagation of sound in water is simplified, speed of sound in water depends on the temperature, salinity and ambient pressure (depth).


If you have watched the old German U- Boat movies there is always a scene where the sonar room have to listen to the ping -ping of the sonar as an attack boat on the surface searches for the U-boat underneath before it launches the depth charges to try and blow it out of the water !


Early sporting Fathometer for recreational boating used a rotating light at the edge of a circle which then flashed synchronized in time with the received echo corresponding to depth there also gave a small flickering flash for echos off fish. They did nothing to display the trend of fthe bottom depth over time nor anything about bottom structure. They operated strictly in a snapshot mode, as do the cheap digital fathometer of today. They were hardly ideal in a wave tossed small craft or in bright light but they were good for holding the boat in the safe channel assuming one could actually see the light....


Commercial and Naval Fathometer of yesteryear used a strip chart recorder where an advancing roll of paper was marked by a stylus to make a permanent copy of the depth, susally with some means of also recoring time each mar or time tic is proportional to the distance traveled so that the strip charts could be readily compared to navigation charts and maneuvering logs (speed changes.) Much of the world's ocean depth have been mapped using such recording strips. Fathometer of this type usually offered multiple (chart advanced) speed settings, and sometimes, multiple frequencies as well. (Deep Ocean-- low frequency carries better shallower-- high frequency shows smaller structures (like fish), submerged reefs, wrecks, or other bottom composition features of interest.) At high frequency settings, high chart speeds, such fathometer five a picture of the bottom (and any intervening large or scrolling fish) relatable to mitigation position data. Fathometer of this constant recording type are still mandated for all large vessels (100 tons displacement) in restricted waters (i.e. generally, within 15 miles of land)


Eventually, CRT's were married with a fathometer for commercial fishing and the fishfinder was born. With the advent of large LCD arrays, the high power requirements of a CRT gave way to the LCD in the early 1990's and fishfinding fathometer reached the sporting markets at prices nearly anyone of modest means can afford. Today, sporting fishfinders lack only the permanent record of the big ship navigational fathometer, and that is available in high end units that can use and ubiquitous computer to store that record as well.


Most units just attach the FISH symbol to every echo which is not connected to the bottom surface. Nowadays with advances in factory operations and in the technology fishfinders are becoming very affordable and as such an essential part of any fisherman's tackle.If you have a small boat many people will use them to aid in shallow water navigation.The growing popularity of kayak fishing has lead to people fitting them on kayaks and canoes.Anglers even use portable and casting units from the bank.Reliable, easy set up units with great LCD screens can now be had for under 100 GB Pounds.Most units carry a model number which will usually relate to the screen size eg,Cuda 168 versus Fishmark 320 - the latter unit has a bigger screen of 320 pixels.Remember also these products are continually updated each season and become very affordable as units are changed out.Some brands are also made at the same factory and are very similar but may be priced a little different.Lowrance own Eagle for example.Entry level units can be used to get to know how to use the products then upgrade to colour, bigger screens, GPS / Sat-Nav and chart plotting.A fishfinder will not guarantee you catch fish but it will make the day easier, safer and more interesting !


Saturday, July 24, 2010

How to Treat Ingrowing Hairs Shaving Rash Razor Burn

Ingrown hairs, razor rash, razor burn, and other skin / hair removal irritations are common on both men and women after shaving, waxing or other hair removal method. The irritations can be painful as well as being unsightly, embarrasing especially on areas like the face, underarms, bikini line and legs. The clinical term for ingrown hairs is: pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB). A large majority of PFB sufferers are African American / Caribbean men and women. The reason for this is that very curly afro hairs are
most inclined to grow inward or curl around to form razor bumps. What Causes Ingrown Hairs? Pathological Disease Manifestations of Ingrown HairsInflammation: The bodys response to injury. Skin tissue is damaged after the shaving process and it usually causes pain, heat, redness, and swelling. These symptoms occur because blood vessels in the area dilate to bring in extra white blood cells to eat the bacteria and other foreign particles gathering at the site of injury. As a result, dead cells begin to accumulate thus forming papule that turn into pus during the healing process. Any hair in the area gets bound under this formation, cannot exit the skin properly, and worsens the affected area. The hair must be removed to ensure proper and complete healing.Papule Formation: A small superficial raised abnormality or spot on the skin commonly known as a bump.Pustule Development: A blister on the skin containing pus.Bleeding: The rupture of an infected pustule and surrounding blood vessels due to their dilation and close proximity. These vessels are present and in a dilated condition to promote healing.Micrococci: Colonies or clusters of bacteria that cause abscesses in affected tissue. Their presence cause the body to begin the healing effort by both collecting these harmful bacteria and also by building a wall around the bacteria to prevent further spreading throughout the bodyLeukocyte Count Increases: - The presence of white blood cells increases in a damaged or infected area to protect the body against foreign substances and to help produce antibodies.Hypertrophy and Keloidal Scarring: Skin tissue begins to multiply in response to injury caused by the act of shaving, especially in sensitive areas (e.g. bikini line) thus causing Keloidal scarring. Keloid development is common in a small percentage of the population and is clearly defined as a hard, prominent, irregular shaped scar tissue, in the skin, often increasing in size. Keloidal scarring also usually occurs where healing injuries, burns, or surgical incisions are under tension.Epilation: The removal of a hair by its roots. This process is normally done by pulling the hair(s) with tweezers, using wax to strip an area of hair, or by electrolysis.How can I Treat and Prevent Ingrown HairsA few years ago, the treatment for Pseudofolliculitis Barbae (ingrown hairs), would be to use Antibiotics, Retinoic Acid, or to discontinue shaving all together. Today however, there are other treatments available, the most effective of which we have found to be Priva Shave Post Shave Gel (created by a former Estee Lauder Master Formulator). Priva Shave is 100% guaranteed to prevent the following problems commonly associated with after shaving:

is this a clever legal paypal scam?

This guide will astonish any one that pays via Paypal.


Up to now i have had great faith in the paypal system then i came across a very clever scam.


This has been approved by Paypal so i thought everyone should share this and make people aware of this scam.


I became aware of this to my cost after purchasing a keep fit item from a high power seller that trades by the name of PRINCEFANUK


Firstly the item did not arrive so emails were exchanged with the seller.


No reply received.


Emailed seller again to be replied with the comment that the item was out of stock and would be posted asap.


After weeks and still no product I lost it and complained to paypal.


The start of the complaints procedure.


This is where the clever part comes in so read carefully.


The seller has a post office tracking ref. that paypal recognizes as official delivery to my address.


This would be indeed true apart from the cleverness of this seller.


The tracking no. is genuine but it clearly shows that any package was delivered to a close neighbours address and it was addressed to a company name and not my own name.


Quickly legged round to my neighbour to collect my parcel.


Guess what I found,my neighbour handed me an envelope containing a blank piece of paper, a pretty neat scam and its been ok`d by paypal as being perfectly all right despite my complaints.


So lets all share this one as its very very clever.


Regards


Tinkelybells


FAR EAST GUITAR FAKES

I 'VE SEEN CHINESE GUITARS THAT HAVE HAD THE GREAT MAKERS NAMES AND LOGOS EMBLAZENED ACCROSS THEIR HEADSTOCKS AND HAVEASKED THEIR SELLERS TO VERIFY THE AUTHENTICITY OF THE INSTRUMENT. THEY NEVER REPLY. THIS IS BECAUSE THEY ARE ONLY TOO AWARE THAT THEIR EXTREMELY POOR QUALITY FRAUDS AND THEY TRUELY ARE FRAUDS, CANNOT BE CONFIRMED AS THE INSTRUMENT THEY CLAIM TO BE. YOU SIMPLEY CANNOT BUY AS LES PAUL OR A STRAT FOR 99p.AFTER DEALING IN GUITARS FOR FIFTEEN YEARS AND HAVE YET TO FIND ANYONE WILLING TO PART WITH A GUITAR FOR UNDER A QUID. ONE GOOD QUALITY GUITAR WILL LAST YOU A LIFETIME. IT WILL GROW OLD WITH YOU AND OFFER YOU ALL THAT YOU OFFER IT. IF YOU THINK YOU NEED HELP IN ASSERTAINING AN INSTRUMENT'S GENUINITY THEN JUST SEEK SOME ADVISE FROM SOMEONE YOU TRUST. REMEMBER, IF IT LOOKS LIKE A LEMON IT'S PROBABLY A LIME.........1140DAVIDG.

Note for Civvies regarding S.A.S. kit

Here's a guide for civvies: don't be fooled or cajoled into parting with more cash than you need to, just because the ad reads 'CRACK BLACK S.A.S. ELITE SPECIAL FORCES SMOCK - RARE!!!'


Most kit you see on E-bay is cheap tack. Some kit is as issued to SAS or SB's, but go faster smocks are available to any squaddie who wants to pay a bit more. The best smock, the rolls-royce of SAS smocks, is made by Special Air Sea Services, but they start at 95 . But why would you want to part with that amount, purely to fish in or hunt defenseless bunny rabbits?


If you're a student and are a pacifist, but like wearing killers work clothes anyway, then get down to your local Army surplus - you can pick jackets and smocks up for 20 to 40. Happy days.


Del Prado Medieval Warriors - Complete Listing

This is astraight forward listing of the Del Prado Medieval Warriors Series. It is designed to help collectors identify gaps in their collections or for those wishing just to track down individual models.Aswith some of their other collections the Del Prado numbering can at times be a little confusing. On some issuesthe figure, the outer wrapper and the figure all had differentnumbers!For clarity on all my Del Prado listings Iuse the bookletnumbers as originallyreleased in the UK.My interest is both personal and professional. I collect Del Prado figures as a hobby and I also sell them in my eBay store: Drum

I got shafted by a fraudster

I got hoodwinked in this format I bought and paid for a 2gb and low and behold after storeing 400mb the drive was full, talk about feeling gutted the buyer who I bought the item from was based in china seller name was C2C-megastore so please be weary when buying items such as this, Q what precautuions can you take A as soon as you get one fill it up to its max with data and if it works then fine if not get in touch with ebay sharpish. I someone learns from my mistake, take it easy ya all :-)

Cricut Machine

Hello, this quick guide aims to answer some of the more common questions about the Cricut Machine.


What is the Cricut Machine?

The Cricut is a new personal electronic cutter made by the trusted craft maker ProvoCraft, cited as the future of home crafting, voted the most intuitive and practical new craft product in 2006, they were released just before xmas in the UK.


No computer is required - just plug it in - insert a cartridge adn choose your design - the very easy to follow screen guides you through the process of cutting your desired shape over and over.


What Comes in the Box?

The UK version comes with a UK Power Adaptor
The Machine
Cutting Mat
Blade Housing Blade
Cutting Mat
George and Basic Shapes Cartridge
Instruction Book
How Big Can it Cut?

You can set all the shapes/letters to cut 12 different sizes from 1inch to 5.5 inches


Is it Heavy?

The machine weighs in at only 7lbs


What should we look out for?

Watch out for grey imports - these come with a US power supply and are not covered by the manufacturers warranty, they are typically slightly cheaper (due to VAT in the UK mainly) - try and buy from a supplier that stocks accessories, cartridges and offers you some support if you run into difficulties - as ever with ebay look at the feedback of the seller.


How Many Cartridges and How Much Are they?

There are around 20 cartridges currently released in the UK with around 15 more due in 2007, these range from around 45 to 60 depending on the seller and the images/designs RRP on the cartridges is 69 in the UK.


Where can I see it working?

Go toCricut.com where there isan online video - this is from the US makers of the machines - you will need quicktime installing to watch these.


My Account Was Hijacked! Lessons From My Nightmare

I am sharing my own personal nightmare experience here to
help warn eBay shoppers and sellers about the serious dangers that
could be faced if good people are
not careful, well informed and cautious while buying or selling on
eBay.
Knowledge is our very best defense, read carefully and learn how to
protect yourself.Sellers,
don't be fooled into thinking that you are too smart to be attacked!
However, there are some things that you can do to make your account a
little less vulnerable.

A shocking number of eBay sellers accounts are being hijacked for the sole purpose of stealing money from innocent shoppers.
I know this because my own account was taken over by
pirates. These despicable thieves are out to take unsuspecting
buyers for every penny that they can get. This scam is perpetrated by
stealing the good name and honest reputation of highly respected eBay
sellers. The pirates sell non-existent items (they even steal the
pictures and descriptions from other listings). Buyers pay the
"seller" in good faith and receive NOTHING but grief in return.
Meanwhile, the actual owner of the eBay account ends up with the lost
business from the legitimate items that were hijacked AND a damaged
reputation, OR WORSE!

Fortunately, for me, I monitor my account very closely and I
was able to thwart them before any real damage could be
done. However, those shameless perpetrators just moved on to some other
unsuspecting eBay member and continued to try to STEAL YOUR YOUR
HARD-EARNED MONEY.


SELLERS, BE WARNED - MONITOR YOUR EBAY ACCOUNT VERY CLOSELY!


I learned quite a bit of very useful information from my ID
theft experience and I thought it might be a good idea to let others
know how to spot these low-life thieves, before they succeed in stealing
your money. My fiasco happened in the States, but I am certain that my British friends might be interested to learn from my experience.

BUYERS: Here are a few things to watch for that might tip you off to a potential scam listing.


1. The "seller" looks completely respectable, with a very good to excellent feedback rating.
There is no reason for a criminal to hijack the account of a
disreputable seller. The bad guys are looking for highly respected
sellers, the more honest and professional the better. Consequently, a
100% feedback rating and glowing feedback comments do not guarantee a
safe transaction. In fact, the better the seller, the more attractive
they are to the bad guys. They want to use the sellers great
reputation to lull potential victims into a false sense of security.
This is done by eBay identity theft, commonly called "ID piracy".

2. The seller asks potential bidders to contact them before bidding.
They will give very legitimate looking reasons for you to contact them
directly. The real reason is to get you to buy off-eBay (where you
"the buyer" have almost no protection). The scammer will try to
convince you that this is done to save on eBay fees so that you can
get a better deal.

3. The suspected seller is often listing a very expensive item that is not usually offered by the real owner of the eBay account.
When you find a 1,000.00 professional camera lens for sale by an eBay member who usually
sells a lot of books, teddy bears or DVD movies, you should be very
suspicious. Most people who legitimately sell expensive high-tech units
tend to specialize in those items. Look at the sellers Other Items For
Sale and their feedback to see if they regularly sell products similar
to the item that is offered in the listing. If the item for sale looks
"out-of-place" for this seller, you need to do more investigating
before making any kind of commitment.

4. The deal looks like a fantastic opportunity to save a lot of money.
When that 150.00 Apple iPhone is offered for 10.00, you should
already know better (your mother told you all about this). Legitimate
sellers do not give away their products. Since this is not a real
auction, the item has to be sold "off-eBay", with the pirates own
version of Buy-It-Now. This is actually a Rip-You-Off-Now deal.
Look for the official eBay "Buy-It-Now" button on the listing. If that
"button" is not there, this guy is up to no good! NEVER BUY AN
EBAY LISTED ITEM DIRECTLY FROM ANY SELLER... EVER! Legitimate sales are
always completed through proper "eBay approved" methods of payment.


NO REPUTABLE SELLER WOULD EVER ASK YOU TO BUY AN EBAY LISTED ITEM DIRECTLY FROM THEM... EVER!


5. Current bidders IDs are often displayed as Private.
This prevents well-informed eBay members from contacting the poor
sucker to warn him or her about the impending scam. We all try to
help each other out when we can, and the bad guys know this. The
practice of making all bidders appear as Private should be viewed as
a red flag. (Although, there are some legitimate reasons for this
practice. Just be sure that you know why this is being done before you
place a bid.)

6. These suspicious items are usually offered in a 1-Day listing.
Some choose the 2 or 3-day listing option, but rarely. The pirates know
that they need to make a quick "hit

BAMBINO WORLD TANDEM PRAM-READ BEFORE YOU BUY!!!

When i received my bamibino world tandem pram, i thought it was great! It moved well, wasn't too heavy and fitted into the back of my car (a fiat punto). And i bought it for 50 so was really pleased! A week later one of the back wheels fell off! Luckily I was right by my house as I had just returned from shopping in town, otherwise I would have been stuck with a one month old and a 13 month old and a broken pram and no way of getting home! The bits that hold the wheel on had all come off, so i sent a message to bambino world and although they didnt understand much english, they sent me a couple of parts to fix the wheel back on, although they didnt provide the cover cap which covers the connecters.


After this i was fairly weary about taking the pram out as you would be, but carried on using it none the less hoping it was a one off. Three weeks ago the other wheel fell off, I was nowhere near my house and had no car with me. I searched for half an hour and finally found one of the parts which held the wheel on until i got home. I have since tried superglueing it on but have no idea if that will work! On top of all this, when i want to unfold the pram and use it, one side wont click into place so it slightly folds every now and again when in use!


I am so disappointed with this pram as I thought it was great when i first received it, manouverability was good etc but now i avoid going out so i dont have to use it! Cant afford a new one so i tend to use my single pram and a carrier.I guess you get what you pay for in some cases!

Learning the Value of Rare Coins

A few years ago we started a website called eCoinPrices.Com to enable the public to have Free Online access to learn the Value of Rare Coins. eCoinPrices.Com also gives the current market price of each issue with the mintage and a historical description.


When Collecting Coins, many collectors have come across a particular coin from time to time and wondered whether they had something of great value in their possession. There are many factors influencing a coin's value whether it is a morgan silver dollar, a state quarter, a kennedy half, a buffalo nickel, a mercury dime or a lincoln cent. Remember that the mere fact that a coin does not have significant monetary value does not mean that it is not interesting or that it should not form part of your collection.


There are at least three values of a coin, the Price the owner thinks his coin is worth, the Price the Red Book or a Pricing Guide lists it at and then most important, the Actual Price that you can sell it for to a dealer, buyer, on eBay or at auction.


Factors Influencing Value


The value of a particular coin is influenced or determined primarily by the following four factors:


1. Scarcity or rarity is a major determinant of value. As a general matter, the rarer a coin the more it is worth. Note that rarity has little to do with the age of a coin. Many one thousand year old Chinese coins often sell for no more than a few dollars because there are a lot of them around, whereas a 1913 Liberty Head Nickel may sell for over $1,000,000 because there are only five known specimens in existence.


2. The condition or grade of the coin will influence its value. The better the condition a coin is in, the higher will be its assigned grade and the more it will be worth. An uncirculated coin that is in flawless mint state might be worth hundreds times more than the same coin in good condition but which has been circulated.


3. Many coins have a bullion value determined by the value of the precious metals it contains. A gold, silver or platinum coin does not generally sell for much less than its melt value.


4. The demand for the particular coin, or how many collectors want it, will also greatly influence coin values. Some coins that are relatively plentiful may command higher prices than scarcer coins because the former are more popular with collectors. For example, there are over 400,000 1916 D dimes in existence as compared to only about 30,000 1798 dimes. However, even though the 1798 dime is much rarer than its 1916D counterpart, the 1916D coin sells for significantly more. This is because many more people collect early 20th century mercury dimes than dimes from the 1700's.


Determining a Coin's Approximate Value


1. Accurately and properly identify the coin. You can obtain guidance on how to do this by using this site's How to Identify a Coin page


2. Grade the coin based on your careful observation of its condition. This can be done by Determining the Grade of a Coin.


3. Look the coin up in a coin catalog to find listed retail selling prices or estimated retail values for your coin. For United States coins, use A Guide Book of United States Coins by R.S. Yeoman, commonly called The Red Book by collectors and dealers. It provides retail prices for United States coins. It is available in many public libraries and in major bookstores and coin shops. For World coins, the most widely used guide is a series of volumes called The Standard Catalog of World Coins by Krause and Mishler. These volumes are also available in many public libraries.


4. For more current prices, based on what dealers are actually selling the particular coin for, you should check coin newspapers and magazines or sites such as eBay, Greysheet, CCE, Coin World or eCoinPrices.Com. These sites provide price guides for many United States coins and some World coins.

HOW TO START A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS ON EBAY!!!!

How to start a successful business on ebay!!!


Many people first try selling on eBay because they want to clear out the attic or instead because they just fancy giving it a go. Very few start out to sell on eBay professionally from day one.


Before we actually start with the selling process, firstly let me ask, what do you intend to sell? I would strongly suggest that you sell something that you are passionate about. Your passion, or feelings come through in your listing. A plain white T shirt to one person could be a classic white T goes with everything, a must have for your wardrobe. Which would you buy? Plain white T shirt or classic white T?


Before you start selling there are a number of things to consider.


1, Do Your Research. Do you want to be stuffing jiffy bags with CDs/DVDs or sell furniture? Each have their own practical aspects. How to wrap, how to ship, after sales service. You will need to consider the space that you have, a spare bedroom/garage for example, you would be surprised just how quickly you can fill that space. Do you want to start small and grow your business, or are you going to start big and go for it?


2, Your User IDWill your Username reflect what you sell? Or would you rather a catchy sounding name, or a boring User12345? It is entirely your choice, well just as long as no one has already taken the name you want.


3, Build Up Your FeedbackI would recommend and absolute minimum of 25 positive feedbacks, but ideally at least 100, a good compromise would be 50. The reason you want feedback before you sell is that virtually no one will bid on a seller with zero feedback and if they do, they wont be bidding a large value.Feedback gives bidders a confidence that you are a genuine person. So buy a number of things first. This will also give you a good idea of how other sellers perform and you can get an idea of what a buyer is looking for. Then when you have some idea about what the buyer expects, list a small number of cheaper items to gain some feedback as a seller, and to give you an idea what to expect as a seller. This learning exercise should give you sufficient feedback to start as a proper seller.


4, Image

micralite what a great buggy, why i reccomend it

I bought a red micralite and i have to say its one of the strangest prams i have ever seen but also one of the most practical, i cant say how it would be for a younger baby but i have had it for my 2 and a half year old, and its the most comfortable pram shes had, i cant get her out it. I have had 13 prams between my 2 girls in the last 5 years ranging from, mamas and papas to maclarens, but none have been as easy to push, this is the first pram i have had that you can push with one hand, it steers excellent and as for floding, its so easy , you really can do it one handed.


Everything about this pram is just so easy, it comes ready made up and all you do is put on the wheels, no fiddly poppers for the raincover either and the raincover comes in its own little bag.


The pram does tip if you have to much on the handles but only if the childs not in it, and after reading someone else review on another pram, you can put little weights that you get to put on you wrists onto the bottom of the base and then it wont tip, i have never really found it a problem though, shopping basket id hard to acsess but apart from that i really cant reccomend the pram anymore, its so nice to push and my little one always lloks so compfy in it.

wedding dresses

i bought two dresses from shanghai one i never recived the took my money and i never got the dress the other i recived but it was so flithy i could not wear it sent it back but never got any money back so pleases be very careful of buy from these people i have sent about 40 to50 emails to both of them but they do not answer them you see the same dresses being sold but under different name be warned it could happen to you i lost 250.00 pounds uk money so be careful when buying from ebay

SPOTTING FAKE BIG PONY POLO TOPS

It's really quite easy when you see them advertised on Ebay go to the Ralphlauren.com site and you usually find that some of the colours on offer you can't even get from the manufacturer.Then the good bit,,,Email the seller and ask them why the colour they are listing does'nt exist on the Manufacturers site and wait for the reply it never comes HA HA or you get a load of S**T about it being exclusive,yes exclusive to them because they make them themselves.BEWARE I HATE RIP OFF ARTISTS.Here is a prime example of a response i got........Hi. I understand your concern but our supplier assures us they are 100% genuine. Some of them are colours that are not out in this seasons, big pony as big pony has been out before. Regards. What a load of Bull.


PLEASE LEAVE A YES OR NO.

How to get into the NEO GEO scene the cheap way!!!



The mighty NEO GEOAES (Advanced Entertainment System) from SNKwas the most powerful and expensive console to be released in the 90's. Today, a lot of the classicgames - for example: Fatal Fury, Samurai Spirits 1

KINGAVON STEAM CLEANER

Thinking of buying a steam cleaner? I can recommend the Kingavon 1000w Steam Cleaner which I bought from a superb ebay seller.


It has a generous tank capacity and delivers a powerful spray. Cleans kitchen, mirrors, bathroom, soft furnishings, clothes etc and has an attachment for window cleaning. The lead is 40ft so stretches long distances, useful for bathroom cleaning.


Attachments include nozzles, brushes as well as a long hose for out of reach areas and a soft towellingcover for more delicate cleaning. It really does get rid of grease and dirt. It saves using chemicals or sprays around the home thus is benificial to allery sufferers, asthmatics etc.


It will shift really stubborn stains although long standing grease on a cooker does need a little help! Think student digs!!! It even can be used to help strip wallpaper in smaller areas and cleans grouting beautifully. UPVC comes up like new. All you need to buy are cloths or paper towels to take away the residue. What better way to keep your home clean and hygienic without the elbow grease and cost of cleaning materials. You could almost say cleaning becomes a pleasure!!!!!!


Due to thecompact design, steam does not build up in the room. It is fairly lightweight so can be used for a fair amount of time.

DON'T buy stuff from Thailand

DON'T buy stuff from Thailand, most stuff from Thailand is fake and is worth nothing.


Most Football (soccer) shirts


F1 stuff




Don't Take The Risk!

How to install TomTom navigator on XDA Exec MDA Pro etc

I used to sell this guide on ebay and many have left great feedback

I wrote this guide late last year when I first got my XDA Exec and decided to offer it for sale on ebay, I was selling it for 4.99 and sold quite a lot of copies. 99% of the time, this will work If you have a new XDA Exec and an exsisting copy of TomTom 5.You may already notice you are having problems installing the software or even getting the TomTom application to recognize the GPS receiver. Here is a solution.If you find this guide useful, please do vote at the end.. ALSO, you can get a fresh copy of the Latest TomTom software release in my ebay shop My Shop is here


The Guide.

XDA EXEC TOMTOM 5 BLUETOOTH GPS GUIDEGPS SOLUTION FOR TOMTOM NAVIGATOR 5 By Jim Saunders. eBay user Powersellersuk.


PLEASE READ This file is copyright and not for resale. If you purchased this from any other seller than Powersellersuk then please leave them Negative feedback and report to eBay as they do not have permission to sell this file.


there are 3 key steps in making TomTom 5 work on an i-mate JasJar, XDAII Exec with a Bluetooth GPS. Many tips are scattered around in different Forums. Here is a COMPLETE overview of what to do

I advise you read each step while you are actually carrying out the instructions because you might miss something you try doing it from memory!! NOT RECOMMENDED.


STEP1: INSTALL TOMTOM 5

You do this by copying all of the CAB files from the CDROM these are found in the folder named PocketPC (e.g. F:\PocketPC) Copy all files to the PocketPC XDA Exec (Storage Card Recommended) and launch one by one from there with the Start

CHINESE SILVER TORTURE- assisted by PayPal PART 2!!

Hello boys and girls! Well, thank you everyone for the feedback ive received. So I decided, like with most good stories, to write a sequel, youll be glad to know that the original cast are all here..in case you missed the blockbuster that was part I, refer over to collectibles (apparentkly i couldnt put the guide into coins,I wonder why?)and maybe this makes part II a little more coherent.


At the end of part I youll remember that Im here in desperate peril, tied downto the railway tracks of a financial con-trickby the unbreakable bonds that are PayPals so-called Buyer Protection Policy, and waiting for the PayPal cavalry to arrive...unfortunately unknown to the hero PayPal was busytripping overthe piles of cash it is making in profits. Meanwhile a sneaky Chinese sellerhas vamoosed with the cash...for, in a desperate bid to salvage ANYTHING from this swindle, he has had to deal with the Bad Guy...


remember this from part 1?


to: robotnyk_again


Date: Sun 7th May 2006


Dear friend,Very happy letter received you. we sell coin have appraisal and collection certificate,and is 999 silver,it isn't currency. i do't thinkanywherediscontented of my coin, I send back you GBP30.00 ,please repeal paypal above of complaint, Or you need return my item ,whe ni accept it,i wll return you all miney soon,


Let us live in the world peacely ,Looking forward to your replying...Thanks

China Guitar Scam

Hi ebayersTo add to the growing number of communications that are involing Branded guitars at rediculously low prices from China. The ones to be very wary of are where you are asked to part with ridiculously high postage costs which are non-refundable. In other words you pay 2.00 for a Gibson Les Paul and 220.00 for postage. When you are naturally disappointed about the guitar you recieve (which is generally worth about 2.00) and you complain. You get 2.00 back and the scammer pockets the rest.Keep 'em peeled!RegardsNottingham Neil

CHOOSING A CAT COLLAR

Cat collars:

Many people think that cat collars are simply another fashion accessory or
adornment for pets, and while there are some stunning cat collars around, that

Dog Jokes!

Two Dog Owners

Two dog owners were bragging about the intelligence of their pets.


"The brightest dog I ever had," said one, "was a Great Dane that used to play cards. He was a whiz at poker, but finally a friend complained about him and I had him put to sleep."


"You had him put to sleep, a bright dog like that? A dog like that would be worth a million dollars."


"Had to", he replied, "Caught him using marked cards!"


Top Ten Signs You Spoil Your Dog:

1. You think begging for table scraps is beneath him, so you let yourdog eat at the table with you.


2. You take him to the supermarket and let him pick out his own dog food.


3. Your husband comes home from work, looks at the stew on the stove and asks: "Is this people food or dog food?"


4. You bought matching His

Easy to Use International Ring Size Guide

Ring Size Guide:

If you are in any doubt as to what your ring size is then a quick way to find out is to simply wrap a piece of cotton around your ring finger and then measure the length of the cotton against a ruler to give your ring size in millimeters. Use the ring size chart below to see what your corresponding UK and US ring size is or alternatively simply visit your local jeweller with an exisitng ring and have them size it or if the purchase is for yourself simply have them message your finger.


Easy to use UK and USA ring size converter

Circumference,mm UK size USA size


46.5mm H 1/2 4


48mm I 1/2 4 1/2


49mm J 1/2 5


50.5mm L 1/25 1/2


52mm M 6


53mm N 6 1/2


54.5mm O 7


55.5mm P7 1/2


57mmQ 8


58mm Q 1/28 1/2


59.5mm R 1/2 9


International ring size guide:

Circum-ference, USA / UK Frenchin mm Asian sizesRussian___________________________________


39.6 1 1/2 C -41.0 2D 41 1/242.2 2 1/2 E 42 3/443.6 3 F 4444.5 3 3/8 G45 1/445.1 3 5/8 G1/24645.4 3 3/4 H 46 1/246.6 4 1/4 I 47 3/447.7 4 5/8 J 4948.7 5 J1/2 49 3/449.0 5 1/8 K 5049.9 5 1/2 L 51 3/451.2 6 M 52 3/452.5 61/2 N5453.8 7 O 55 1/455.0 7 1/2 P 56 1/256.48 Q 57 3/457.7 8 5/8 R 5959.2 9 1/8 S 60 1/460.59 5/8 T 61 1/262.1 10 1/4 U 62 3/462.6 10 1/2 U1/2 62 7/863.0 10 5/8 V 6364.4 11 1/8 W 6565.711 5/8 X66 1/466.6 12 Y 67 1/267.9 12 1/2 Z 68 3/4


NOTE: Standard US Ring Sizes: For Ladies = 5-6-7-8,


Petite Size = 1-2-3-4


Jet Ski Insurance

Choosing a new Jet Ski or Personal Watercraft (PWC) on eBay, provides a large number of alternatives. Thankfully when it comes to finding an insurance quotation for any potential purchase, there are fewer choices. The choice you make is nevertheless very important.


This guide to Jet Ski Insurance may help you decide the sort of policy you require.


Q. What should I look out for?A. Both the cover provided by different PWC insurance companies and the service they offer, can vary greatly. Bear in mind that a cheaper policy may end up costing you more, if you have to make a claim and you should always check what cover is being offered before signing up.


Everyone's needs are different, and only you can decide if wider cover is important to you. It is essential though, to understand what is being offered to you, before being able to make an informed decision.



Comprehensive Cover - will provide cover for your ski against accidental damage, theft, fire and vandalism, plus third party liability risks.
Third Party Liability - You should not consider going afloat without liability insurance, which will cover you if you cause damage to another craft or worse still, cause injury to another person.
Policy Excess - You will be required to pay the first x of any claim.
Theft cover - The policy will require you to secure your equipment, but each company's requirement may be different. Check carefully to ensure that you can meet these requirements or you may be left uninsured.
Cover whilst towing - Most policies can be extended for use while towing waterskiers, kneeboards or inflatable toys, however restrictions may apply, so check these carefully before getting out on the water.

Q. Why do I need third party liability cover? A. 2,000,000 Third Party Liability is usually compulsory before you launch anywhere in the UK and you should not consider going afloat without this cover as a minimum. A policy providing third party liability should cover you if you were to cause damage to property or injury to another person, with your jet ski.Third party risks whilst in transit would be EXCLUDED as this is normally covered by your motor insurance policy.


Q. Should I expect a standard policy to cover me while my PWC is not being used?A. Comprehensive policies should cover your ski against accidental damage, theft, fire and vandalism, whether in use or not; however there may be restrictions on your policy. There may be restrictions on where your jet ski should be kept and how it should be secured. Some companies may insist that the ski is kept in a locked building, or that the seat is removed and kept separately. Some companies may impose certain policy terms such as a higher policy excess that would become payable if the Jet Ski was stolen. These details should be clearly listed on your policy.


Q. Does it matter who is in charge of the Jet Ski?A. Yes - You may be required to list each user on the policy schedule or there may be age restrictions for users. Most insurers will expect each driver to have a minimum level of experience or to have passed the RYA Personal Watercraft proficiency certificate


Q. What about cover for use outside the UK? A. This will vary, depending on the policy you have chosen and the cruising range will be shown on your policy. Before venturing abroad, contact your insurers to establish whether cover can be given and whether any additional restrictions will be imposed.


Q. What should I do in the event of a claim?A. You should always submit your claim as soon as possible after an accident. After all, the faster you make the claim, the faster you can get back on the water.


Any incidences of theft or criminal damage should be reported to the police - remember that you'll need the Crime Reference Number for the claim form.


You will be required to provide at least one estimate for the repairs or a written quote for the replacement items if a repair is not possible. Your Insurer may ask to inspect any equipment damaged, before authorising its replacement or send a Loss Adjuster or Surveyor to assess the damage.


Q. How quickly should I expect to have my claim settled? A. This will depend on which insurance company you use and their speed of response. It can also depend how quickly your repairer can provide a quotation and then carry out the necessary repairs. It is Noble Marine's intention is to respond to you within two working days, advising how to proceed, so you'll know exactly where you stand, and how soon you can expect to be back on the water.


For more imformation, please have a look at Noble Marine's eBay page


Thank you for reading this guide.If you found it to be helpful, please click on the "YES" button below.

How to make dread extensions!

Right? So you have seen all those fantastic hairpeices on eBay to can buy, but there is never one exactly how you like it and you fancy cutting costs and making your own! But where do you start? What do you need?- A hairdryer (or steam gun for the professional)-100% Kanekalon (heat shrinkable) synthetic hair ( available on eBay for a couple of quid, one bad will make about 10 dreads)-Lace or an elastric band to bind the dreads too-Small comb (the ones with no handle which cost about 35p)-ScissorsFirst things first, the set up. You need something to tie/hook your lace or hair band too. Somewhere you can sit comfortably and possibly watch the telly too. Unpack the synthetic hair ad seperate into 10 even parts and place them carefully over a rail of somesort (or the back on a chair). Take the first section and thread it through the hairband or loop over if it is lace. Make sure the hairband or lace are in the middle of the section and both sides are even. Start to braid the peice of syntheitc hair onto the band or lace to secure it. Now, some people use a glue gun and glue this in place. Personally, get out your hairdryer and blast it to seal.Once you have your first strand of synth hair on your band or lace, gently back comb whilst twisting the entire strand. You will need to back comb the enitre length of the hair so it looks like a big fuzzy mess. Then twist the mess and rub with your hands along the length of the dread, be quite vigorous. Once it is starting to look a little dready, twist into a tight dread and blast with your hair dryer or steam gun.-Safety Point: Watch yourself with a steam gun, its unforgiving but also your hair dryer can get hot too so wear gloves or be very careful.When using a hair dryer be careful not to burn the hair, run the heat up and down the dread to seal it. Once finished, trim the end of your dreads.The more you tease the shorter the dreads will become and the tighter they will be.A good hairpeice will have 20-30 dreads depending on how much hair you have to cover. You can go manic with your dreads adding in wire, plastic tubing and beads, everything you need is available here on eBay!

Phone Line Faults

Here is a brief guide to the most commons problems you will encounter with your home or business phone line. They are listed in order of the most common. But first, here's a basic explanation of how a phone line works.


Your phone line consists of 2 wires. Usually the wires are copper, sometimes aluminium. The one wire is the power (50v approx), the other wire is the earth. They leave the telephone exchange in big cables up to 2000 lines, then via a series of junctions and joints, they arrive at your house in a single cable.


I've used the BT technical term for each fault, plus given an explanation of what they mean.



Your phone line is completely dead. No dial tone. Probable causes are:

The line is DIS. This simply means the line test is not picking up the capacitance reading of your master socket. Basically, the line is broken through somewhere, so cannot complete the cicuit to give you dial tone.


The line is LOOP. Or in other words, the line has a short cicuit on it. The 2 wires are touching somewhere, so again cannot complete the cicuit.



Your line is very noisy. May have dial tone, may cut off while using the phone.

Noise faults usually fall into one or more of the 4 categories below:


Battery Contact. This means your line is in contact with another line. Usually caused by water in the system causing the insulation on the wire to break down.Unless you have more than one line, it will always be a network fault. You may or may not have dial tone, dependent on how much it is in contact with the other line.


Earth Contact. Your line is going to earth somewhere on it's route to you. Maybe a tree has rubbed it through. A local farmer has hit it with his plough or hedgecutter. Could be anywhere in the system.


HR Dis...or high resistance dis. When one wire (sometimes both wires) of your line is struggling to make contact. Again, possibly caused by a tree rubbing on your line, or maybe in a joint in the network which has not been touched for years. You will usually have dial tone ok, but will be very noisy.


Rectified Loop. This is a one way loop usually caused by damp in the circuit. Mostly this is an internal fault in your house, but not always. You will recognise the symptoms as when someone rings your number, your phone will only ring once then cut off.


There are several other reasons why a phone line will not work, but the above ones are the most common by far.


If you do get any sort of fault on your line, it always pays to locate your master socket...usually downstairs in the hallway or lounge. It is quite large, about the size of a mains socket. On the master socket you will see 2 small screws. Unscrew these and carefully pull off the lower plate. This plate should have all your extensions around the house connected to it, so go careful not to dislodge any wires. You'll then see you can plug a phone into the body of the socket (the lower plate covers this, so cannot be seen until you take the lower plate off). Test your line here. If it is still faulty, call your service provider.


If your line is testing loop or rectified loop, try unplugging all phones, sky tv, fax machine...everything. This is especially important after lighning has been in your area, as lightning close by can knock out sky boxes, fax machines and dial up modems.


The BT national line test number is 17070. It will only test BT lines. BUT, since I wrote this guide, the line tester will now only function for BT authorised engineers. No members of the public can use it.


If you found this very brief guide useful, please say so.


Must go now. More phone lines to repair.


lithuania scam

listen up, don't be caught in a scam on ebay, it's very easy, i advertised a Nokia N91 on ebay and was getting alot of interest, then 1 day an ebay member from America (carlblet) asked me a question, this is the exact words, hi i am interested in you nokia, so i'd like to know if it still has the protective plastic cover on it's display? and has it been tested? i mean does it work properly, without any problems? cheers.


so i emailed back through ebay and it turns out every time he was replying, he was copy and pasting the original email that he used, so i didn't realise he was not useing ebay, (ask seller a question). any way, he offered me 350 for the phone, so i ended my listing as i thought was a genuine buyer from America, only later did i realise he was not. i sent the phone to an address in lithuania as requested then emailed him the tracking number, less than 20 mins later, paypal sent me an email stating that the person who bought the phone used someone elses credit card, i turns out the person who bought the phone, set up a paypal account under the name of william bogus, only after i sent the phone i realised, i called the royal mail and it was not able to stop the phone being sent. i contacted paypal and told them that either carlblet and this scammer was in it together or this lithuanian hacked his ebay account to ask me a question, what i mean is sharing the ebay user name and password, paypal did not want to know, i called them several times and told them i will take this to watch dog and several times was told we don't care as we have been on there before. i feel disgusted with ebay allowing this to go on and very angered with paypal for not helping me. please be very carefull when useing paypal, in other words, read the small print as this could get you to lose alot of money just like i did. i think that paypal needs to change their procedures or be shut down. please be very very carefull when selling on ebay, i hope this does not happen to you, please see the watchdog website on paypal, very interesing, may even get you to rethink before ever useing paypal. good luck, you'll need it.

Running Your Open Reel Recorder

Running Your Open Reel Recorder,and magnetic tape.


Ok So you've bought a Reel to Reel Tape recorder - GREAT! ..... If you don't know too much about these..... I'll try and give you some advice on running it.......
Good Housekeeping.....
Tape Replay (Playing a Tape)
Normally, domestic type tape recorders have only one record and replay head (this head does the recording and the replaying of the tape as well). (Professional recorder have seperate head for play and record making it possible to hear the recording nearly instantly as it's being mad)
it is important to keep this head clean-using something like a cotton bud soaked in lighter fluid,or an alcohol type cleaner. Any 'debris' from the tapes that are played on the machine can stick onto this head,and clog what is called 'the gap' (this is in the centre of the head,and it doesn't take much to affect the sound quality if it gets 'oxide' from the tape getting onto it . High frequencies will not be heard ! - the recording being played will sound muddy! .Keep all the heads clean!.The Rubber roller that drives the tape (called a 'pinch roller') should also be fairly often cleaned, as should any tape guides.

Magnetic Tape Problems
I must point out - be careful in choosing recording tape. there are some brands around that should be avoided like the plague! -the main problem being that the oxide on the tape has gone, or is going 'unstable' - this leads to a situation where the tape cannot easily be used !
Recording tape normally consist of aPVC 'tape' that is covered with iron oxide with something that is called a 'binder.' This binder keeps the oxide 'glued' onto the base pvc.Some makes of tapes - noteably some Ampex 456 had binder problems. although the tape is fine for a few years,it then, with age aquires moisture and becomes unstable- thus making it very difficult to play, as the oxide and binder deposit off of the tape whilst playing ,and clog up all the tape path. This can result in major problems - immediateHigh Frquency loss on playback.screeching on the tape path,and even a slowing down of speed due to all the goo affecting the machine!
The only good way aroundplaying tapes with this problem is to ' bake them' - Yes! - put them in an oven !.Ata time quite a few years ago in the early 80's,I heard about this and didn't believe it - but yes! - it's the only way to stabilize the oxide and binder on the tape so that it can be played.'Baking' tapes as it's called normally involves a low temperature oven (not your domestic cooker!),and the tapes will normally be left in it for about 3 days.( I see no reason however why you couldn't use a normal domestic oven - however - you'll have to get the microwave working a bit harder for your food!.
Although I've mentioned 3 days to bake- I have in the past used baked tapes after 24 hours without problems-soI think you may get away with leaving tapes to bake for about 24 hrs on a very very low heat. remember though that after baking,I'd advise that any precious material on the tape be re-copied ,as the tape will in time revert back to its unplayable state. I don't have any information on how many times a tape can be put in an oven, however common sense will tell you that you should 'retrieve' the contents just in case in the future it is definately unuseable.
Despite some problems I've just mentioned,recording tape is a super media,Most of it will stand the test of time( tapes recorded as early as 1952 - still sound as brilliant as when they were recorded. there will be a small amount of oxide loss when playing tape,however this is normal, This media can be used thousands of times with no audio losses apparent. i did some tests years agomaking a tape loop with a high frequency tone on it,and after several hundred thousand revolutions on the machines the 'loss' was half a dB ! The other great thing with analogue tape is that it is very forgiving with any problems - you won't get this with any digital formats - just big holes or mutes!

MainTypes of Recording tape
Acetate/ Polyester

Some early recording tape was made using acetate.(this is recognisable by holding the reel of tape to a bright light - if it's acetate -you'll be able to see the light shining through it.This tape has as far as I know only one advantage (if you can call it that) - when it breaks - it breaks cleanly! - and hopefully you'll be able to re-spice it back together ok
Polyester tape (This is what the majority of tape manufactured is)Yes fine - but try and avoid long play types,as when it breaks( usually due to a machine /operator problem) - it will stretch! - and there's no chance of it playing like it used to after this happening!. Standard play Polyester tape will also stretch with abuse,but is quite a bit more forgiving.
Tapebrands that suggests you can record high levels onto it- well there isn't really any gain on most of them- as the print through factor is usually higher as well. Go for a branded tape manufacturersuch asBASF /AGFA/PHILIPS

How to Use Crimping Pliers

Using Crimping Pliers

This guide explains how to use crimping pliers to achieve nicely finished, hand made jewellery. Crimp beads are small metal beads which are used to hold loops in jewellery wire, soft flex and other stringing materials which cannot be knotted. Crimping pliers allow you to shape the crimp beads neatly to give a professional look. First of all, have a look at your pliers. They have two dips in them: the one closest to the handle has an extra prong in it (it looks almost heart-shaped): this is the crimper. The outer dip is round: this is the shaper.


To crimp a loop in the end of your wire:

Thread a crimp bead onto the wire, and then thread the end of the wire back through the bead to form a loop.
Place the bead in the inner (heart-shaped) part of the pliers and gently compress it: you should see it fold into a u-shape.
Turn the u-shaped bead onto its side, and place in the outer (oval-shaped) part of the pliers, and fold the u into a nice round-shaped bead.
Excess wire can now be trimmed off or tucked under the rest of beads on the wire: I do like to leave a small tail on the wire as it seems more secure like that.
Finally, like all jewellery techniques, this will take practice. Fortunately both wire and crimp beads are nice and cheap, so its worth spending a little time on this until you can do it neatly.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

race.shape - BODY KITS- BEWARE!!! RIP- OFF

If You are looking for a body kit for your motor -


You would be advised to avoid race.shape


These people (loose term i know) are selling body kits advertised to come from the uk. - Washington .


Only they are really coming from POLAND.


If you are unlucky enough to buy one (i did), there is a problem and you need to return the item.


YOU HAVE NO CHANCE.


They DONT do returns.


BUT - They DO filling unpaid item disputes, even though you paid through paypal.


They DO nasty , rude , theatening e.mails. That tell you to go get Fooked.


SO IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BUY A BODYKIT.


DONT buy from race.shape.


Please e.mail them and tell them that you were going to purchase from them , but you have now changed your mind.


Im sure i will get more grief. - I would rather get my money back!!!!


POWER TO THE PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!



Why do e.bay continue to let these thieves sell on here???

COPY AND REPLACEMENT QUALITY MEDALS

Having collected medals for 40 years I am not new to the hobby, but am relatively new to e-bay. One of the changes to have taken off in the past few years, and particularly noticable on e-bay is the sale of copy medals, (not fakes, so long as they are honestly described and priced and marked "copy").


The grey area comes when such medals are described as "replacement quality", indicating that they are somthing better than average. Replacement medals have been available through official channels for many years to be supplied to receipients who have lost their original medals. They are normallymarked "Replacement" or "Repl" on the rim, where as copies are usually marked as"Copy" on the obverse face (the "tails" side of the medal).


Always bear in mind that with medals metal matters! Prior to the Second World War most British medalswere silver (if we ignore bronze stars and silver gilt ones). After this time certain issues were cupro-nickel and others were silver. The British War and Defence Medals 1939-45, Korea War Medal, South Atlantic Medal, Gulf War Medal 1990-91 and current Iraq War Medal as well as many of the Commonwealth War Service Medals 1939-45 were cupro-nickel.


By contrast the General Service Medal 1918-62, Naval General Service Medal 1909-62, Campaign Service Medal 1962-2007 and current Operational Service Medals were issues in silver and official MoD replacements should also be silver. Copies are almost always cupro-nickel or cheaper metal. It pays to check what the correct metal for the medal in question should be.


Rather against my better judgement I took a chance on an item advertised as a replacement quality medal to fill a gap in a group I had bought. When it arrived it was quite clearly an indifferent quality copy with the word "copy" scratched out. I was able to compare it with an original issue medal and it was nowhere near the quality required of a replacement.


I contacted the seller, received no reply butreturned the medal requesting a refund and even included an sae, further requests and another sae, but no refund. Eventually I left negative feed back as a warning to others and received negative feed back by way of retaliation.


There may well be traders on e-bay who are offering genuine replacement quality medals marked as such, but buyers need to beware. Anyone new to the hobby may not be aware that there are organisations such as the Orders and Medals Research Society who try to maintain standards amongst traders and collectors and have ejected or refused membership to certain individuals. Another forum for debate in Medal News (Token Publishing Ltd.), who are keen to maintain standards.


Finally do not be intimidated by the prospect retaliation when it comes to feedback, if your comments are honest and straight forward then others will see that you had reason to complain and more often than not the retailiation will be bluster and easy to see through. Other people need to be warned and if enough people complain it becomes apparent that the trader in question is to be avoided.

Buying A Moped

When buying a moped its important to check for the following things:


Sellers history on ebay - check feedback


Size of engine


Stroke engine size


If the bike is registered in the UK and has relevant forms for registration (e.g, EEC, COC for if the bike is imported)


If the seller offers any warranty on the bike


If the bike can be insured in the UK, some sellers have details on the advert of insurance brokers that can insure the bike at a cheap cost.


I myself sell mopeds on Ebay and know what you should be looking out for when buying a moped.


Thanks


Shoppingsolutions06

How to buy a scuba diving or watersport wetsuit

If youre in the market for a new wetsuit, you are probably thinking what would be right for me? Unless you are constantly diving in water thats 98.6 (Normal body temperature), youre going to need a wetsuit as cooler water will quickly absorb body heat. So we aim to give you an impartial guide of what to consider.


THICKNESS The single most important decision you will make is what thickness of wetsuit you will need. There are many to choose from 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 7mm and even 9mm, Titanium, then varying thicknesses of Semi-Dry Wetsuits and Dry suits. Some wetsuits offer different thicknesses of neoprene on different parts of the body. For instance a 5/3mm would have 5mm for the body and 3mm on the legs and arms. And its important to remember that while we offer a guide there is no fixed rule as to what wetsuit is ideal. Different people have very different tolerances to the cold. The best idea is, when in doubt air on the thicker side.


Generally water temperatures of above 30C (85F) a 3mm shortie wetsuit would be the most comfortable option. 20- 30C (70- 85F) would suit a 3mm Full Wetsuit. 15 - 20C (60 - 70F) Go for a 5mm. 10 - 15C (50 - 60F) would require something like a 6.5mm semi-dry suit. Less than 10C (50F) would be in Dry suit territory. Also, do not discount the value of a hood, even in warmer weather. 25% of the body heat is lost through the head and this can mean the difference between a very chilly or a very comfortable dive.


DESIGN How you want your suit to be constructed is another important decision. Should it be one piece or two? Hood attached or not? Front zip or rear zip? These are decisions that will affect the thermal comfort.


For warm water dives where a 3mm will do, you might want to give a thought for just a shortie. The advantage is that it will be cheaper, less buoyant, less weight and easier to put on. But consider that your legs and arms will be exposed.


A full wetsuits offers you the best protection, both thermally and physically. There isnt much difference with front and rear zips but a rear zip will have a higher collar that may provide added warmth. However, if you have sensitive gag reflex you may find the higher collar too restrictive. In this case a two piece front zipped suit would be best.


For a 5mm suit, youll probably want a 2 piece suit with a long john and a matching jacket. Since you will probably be diving in colder waters a hooded jacket may come in use. This will help stop any water from running down your back during the dive. Some two piece suits can be complicated and time consuming to put on, look out for easy systems like a long john and simple jacket with Velcro attachments.


FIT The warmest best constructed, most expensive materials wont be of any benefit if the suit doesnt fit correctly. The generally rule of thumb is get the best possible fit without being restrictive and uncomfortable. Just remember the looser the suit, the more it will allow cooler water to flow through it regardless of the thickness. In General:


Armpits and crotch Should not have any major gaps.


Neck Should be snug but not restrictive. Look our for adjustable neck attachments.


Wrists and Ankles Should be very snug and smooth. These are major areas for water seepage.


Zips If you need to pull the zip together to close, go a size down. If it zips too easily, go for a size up.


STITCHING How a suit is physically held together will affect its durability and generally there 4 are types of stitching.


Glued and Taped Two pieces of neoprene are glued on the edges, then a special tape is applied over the seems. When heated it all bonds together. A cheaper method but is not especially strong or long lasting.


Zigzag Stitch Thread zigzags through the neoprene. Generally only used for low stress area. Like any garment if one part of the stitching fails the whole seam will fail.


Mauser As the zigzag but will a fairly broad stitch. Again, holding 100% of the seams. However it can be quite strong and economical.


Blind Stitching Strongest of them all. The material is first glued, and then stitched with interlocking thread. This makes for a very strong, durable and flexible seam.


TYPE OF NEOPRENE This choice will affect the cost and durability.


Skin Bare neoprene. Gives you the tightest seal but is most difficult to get on and off.


Nylon The Nylon covers the neoprene and makes it easier to get on and off. Also come in nice colours.


Titanium The jury is still out on this one. It definitely adds to the cost of the suit. Titanium, which reflects heat, is woven into threads or coated on the inside of the suit. The thought is that it does a better job of preventing heat escape from the body as some is radiated back. The fact is that an extremely well fitting wetsuit will be the best option.


LAYERING Dont overlook the benefits of layering. Put a 3mm shortie over a full wetsuit and you have 6mm where it matters most. The same applies with the 5mm 2 piece suits. This also gives you versatility and allows you to add or remove layers to suit colder depth and comfort.


OTHER THINGS TO LOOK FOR


Kneepads These are a must. No matter what type of dive you are in you will probably be climbing up something and the knees seem to be a useful stop gap.


Ankle

Safe removal of USB Flash Disk / Pen Drive

If you want to remove the drive,DO NOT IMMEDIATELY remove the flash drive from the USB port as this can cause data loss/corruption or even damage the drive in the worst cases.Instead, left-click on the Remove Hardware icon located in the System Tray. As follows;



Awindow containing a list of the USB devices will appear. Left-click on the Safely Remove Mass Storage Device line that matches your flash drive (for example, Safely Remove Mass Storage Device - Drive(G:)).


When you see the following message appear in the bottom left toolbar, it is, as it says, safe to remove the flash drive from the USB port; you may close the message or ignore it, as it will close itself automatically:



IMPORTANT: An important point to make from the start, these drive should not be used for the purpose of backing up critical data. A suitable backup medium should be used, we strongly encourage users to backup files to CD-RW or CD-R disks or zip disks. USB Flash Disk / Pen Drive are meant as a way to get files to and from multiple computers.

Motorola V3i

I have been watching a number of motorola V3i's and i have noticed they have been going for nearly 160 postage. I know they are going in the carphonewarehouse for 120 10 topup. It makes far more sense to buy from the carphonewarehouse:


Advantages are:


Lower price


12months warranty


Colour selection


Try before you buy..........


Just shoip arround before you buy from ebay. There may be better deals elsewhere?


Thanks for reading hope this was helpful,


Nikaed40...


Ducati 749

Regarded by many as the poor mans choice, but is actually more the thinking mans choice. Good ones can be found as cheap as 4500 pounds and can be bought brand new for as little as 6500.


Apart from the engine the rest of the bike is identical in every way to it's bigger brother the 999, sharing all the top draw chasis components and most of the street cred as well.


The smaller motor is only a few mph down on top speed (as little as 5mph if you get a good one) and is not much slower off the line either. The power delivery is less tractor like and smoother making it easier to use, it also helps the chasis to steer sweeter than the triple 9's too.


Useable power starts at about 3ooo rpm where torque through the mid range is comparable to an early fireblade, it carries on to the 11250rpm rev limiter quickley to give acceleration and top speed thats comparable to an early carb model R6.


Wet weather riding is where the engine and chasis really shines as the twins engine helps the rear tyre find grip where other four cylinder bikes just spin. From point too point this is one of the easiest bikes on the road to go fast on in relative saftey.


The down side is tyre wear is excessive, expect front and rear tyres to be well past their best by 2000miles, handling goes from sublime to barge like overnight as it will refuse to turn in and hold a line once this point is reached. The engines will often refuse to tick over properly in colder weather (super unleaded fuel helps) and fuel consumption goes through the roof, but when the sun shines and the weather is hot it all comes together again.


Reliability is the key issue that will decide wether or not this is the bike formost people. S and R models are definatly far more prone to problems than biposto's as their motors are more highly tuned and far more stressed. Avoid anything with race exhausts and super chips as these almost always lead to trouble. Look for bikes with decent warranty left, full history and in standard trim. Servicing is expensive so a bike thats just had it's 6000mile service and preferably an oil change at 3000miles is best secondhand buy. Beware sellers offering just serviced bikes with 3 or 4 thousand on the clock as it probably won't have had a proper service which is every 6 thousand and includes belts, chims etc, hence the expense.


Also beware bikes that have had new tyres at 2000miles as the first set should last at least 3000. 749's have a 1500mile run in period so new tyres early on indicate that it won't have been properly run in. New bikes are a good option on this model because things such as rocker arms and chims that need replacement on the 6000mile service won't be covered by warranty and are veiwed as general wear and tear. If you buy an abused 2nd hander the next service could cost over 1000 pounds so depreciation may not be such a hard option for peice of mind.


Don't be fooled by polish and check owners carefully, many Ducati owners really do have more money than sense when it comes to looking after their bikes.


Last of all if you've never owned a Ducati it's something that every true biker should do once, it is an experience, but like everything special it will cost you one way or another.